Sterling-Rock Falls Historical Society

The Sinnissippi Mounds in Sterling, Illinois

Questions are often raised about the significance of the mounds found at the west end of Sinnissippi Park in Sterling. The purpose of this paper is to pull together the facts as we know them from archaeological research done through the years.

The mounds were here when Hezekiah Brink arrived in 1834 to become Sterling's first settler. Among the early settlers in Sterling were some men who were interested in the natural history of this area, so it is not surprising to learn that a science club was in existence at least as early as the 1870's. One of the activities of the Sterling Scientific Club was the investigation of these mounds to be found along Rock River, east of Sterling.

Prehistoric burial and ceremonial mounds are to be found throughout Whiteside County. The first official exploration was conducted in March of 1858, in the Prophetstown area by Col. J. D. Graham of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, United States Army.

The Academy of Science, now known as the Davenport Museum, made extensive explorations in the mounds in the Albany area. W. C. Holbrook of Coleta, an amateur archaeologist of some note, investigated many of the mounds in the county, including the Sterling Sinnissippi Mounds, and kept records of his work. Many others explored the mounds in the county, some for sport, others for serious scientific reasons.

The Bent Wilson "History of Whiteside County, Illinois," published in 1877, contains the following report of W. C. Holbrook's investigation of the Sinnissippi Mounds in May of 1877:

"...In May, 1877, Mr. Holbrook examined a number of mounds above the Catholic cemetery, in the vicinity of Sterling, one of which was a large mound, one of a number in a row parallel with the river. On moving the clay it was found that this mound contained a Dolmen built of flat pieces of fossiliferous limestone. The stones used were quite large. The wall was a right angled parallelogram, twelve feet long and five wide, the foundation laid upon clay, the wall built in an artistic manner, no cement having been used. The inner surface was smooth and even, although the stones were unhewn. The inside of the Dolmen revealed fragments of eight skeletons, the bones badly decom¬posed. Apparently the bodies were cast into the sepulcher promiscuously. The skulls found indicated that this people were acquainted with the division of surgery known as "trepanning" -- i.e., removing portions of the bones of the skull, or portions of other bones. A thigh bone that had been fractured was found replaced and united in a manner that would do honor to a surgeon of the present day. With the skulls were found a plummet, fossils which are not found in this locality, finely black polished pebbles, and a number of large teeth. In another mound was found an altar of burned rock, oval in shape, long diameter six feet, short diameter four and a half feet. The altar was of fossiliferous limestone. Over the mounds were found a vegetable growth of from one to ten feet and a decayed stump of a hickory tree, about twelve inches in diameter. On and about the altars were usually found charcoal and charred remains of human beings; also evidence of great and continued heat. At Sterling the indications are that the body was placed upon the clay, covered with black loam and a great fire built over the whole. After the fire the mound was raised. This is indicated by the thick strata of charcoal and ashes found. As a rule the remains unearthed furnish unsatisfactory evidence. Great numbers of perfect molar teeth are exhumed, thus certifying that pre historic man was unacquainted with the pangs of the toothache. In the Sterling mounds were found stone scrapers, but very rude in design and execution. Fragments of pottery were found, also implements made from the antlers of the elk and deer. At Sterling is a work that many judges pronounce a fortress. The two embankments are parallel, four rods apart, direction east and west. The south embankment has two gateways. The north embankment is sixteen rods long and has two gateways. The construction indicates knowledge of the cardinal points of the compass. This people evidently had a practical acquaintance with astronomy, as the North Star appears to have been a governing point with them.

"The Mound Builders wore cloth, and dressed the hides of animals, carved rude ornaments and engraved characters upon stone; ate food from earthen dishes, and worshiped at altars erected upon high hills and in low valleys. There is abundant reason for believing that human sacrifice was common with them. Trepanned skulls are frequently met with on opening mounds, evidence being presented that the operation was made prior to death. The superstition of the Mound Builders seems analogous to that of the South Sea Islanders and tribes of savages of the present day who trepan for vertigo, neuralgia, etc., believing that these complaints are demons in the head that should be let out. Metal was worked in an imperfect manner by the people. Galena was a prominent ornament. Mr. J. M. Williamson, of Ustick, says these charms are found in the northwestern part of the county. Copper was apparently the king of metals among the Mound Builders. Anatomically considered the Mound Builders were no larger nor stronger than the men of the present day. Their skulls differ widely from the Indian or Caucasian and have been thus described: "The frontal bone recedes backwards from a prominent supercilliary ridge, leaving no forehead, or rather the eye looks out from under the frontal plate, very similar to a turtle shell, and no more elevated." Their jaws were protruding, prominent and wide. The evidence is that the Mound Builders were a half civilized agricultural people, prominently differing from the Indians in manner of burial and habits of life..."

THE STERLING GAZETTE of May 18, 1878, carried the following story on page 1:

"Visit to the Mound Builders"

"On Tuesday afternoon (May 14), Rev. J. E. Goodhue, Col. Wilson, Drs. Everett and Gillespie, and Messrs. Beck, Powell and Enderton, of the Sterling Scientific Club, made an investigation of two of the mounds which lie near the residence of Mr. Clark Powell, on the farm of Mr. Landis. These mounds are quite numerous in this vicinity, and are of various shapes and sizes, being composed of soil similar to that on which they are built.

"The first mound visited lies very near the fence of the Catholic cemetery, and is one of the largest of the group, its long diameter running east and west. Starting on the north and south sides, a trench three and a half feet wide and from four to eight feet deep was dug through the center of the mound. This was carried about two feet below the surrounding surface, on the supposition that the mound builders buried their dead a short distance below the earth before erecting their mounds over them. The excavation of the first trench yielded nothing but a few flints. Side trenches were then dug from the center., east and west, which resulted in exhuming in the west one numerous pieces of pottery, which seemed to give evidence of having been wrapped in cloth before being baked; parts of a skull, several finger bones, numerous teeth, and a flint or so. No charcoal was found in this mound.

"Leaving part of the company to fill up the hole which had been excavated, and which, by the way, showed the proficiency with which scientists can handle a shovel, the rest proceeded to a smaller mound which lay near the river bank, and proceeded to business. This mound had evidently been used as an altar or funeral pyre, as there was every evidence of a fire having been built upon a rudely constructed stone altar. The bodies, it would seem, had been placed on the ground, an altar of stone reared over them, and on this the fire was built, as quite an amount of charcoal was found mixed in among the rocks. The rocks used in building the altar were of a sandstone formation, and similar in structure to the Dixon stone. Over the altar there had grown a tree which had lived and died, its roots running down among the stones, and one of them going entirely through a skull found among the bones below the altar.

"The number of bones found in this mound was quite large, but the majority of them were too soft to retain their shape on handling. The skull referred to was taken out with great care, but was found to consist of only portions of the frontal, parietal and occipital bones. Attached to the frontal bone on the right side was the superior bone, which forms the cavity of the eye. From this it was ascertained that the skull was of a very low type, there being scarcely any forehead at all, the head sloping back to the crown from a point about half an inch above the eyes. Portions of the upper jaw containing teeth were found under the skull, and the entire under jaw near it. The under jaw is large and massive, and is longer and of sharper curve at the chin than the same bones at the present day. The teeth were in a remarkable state of preservation, the crowns of most of them having been worn down until they were slightly hollowed and very smooth, indicating that the food used by these people was very hard. None of the teeth presented evidences of ante mortem decay either in the crown or roots, many of the latter being long enough for canine teeth. Pieces of the pelvis of three different persons were exhumed, all showing a good degree of preservation. These bones seem to indicate that the pelvis of these ancient people were smaller and more massive than those of the people of our day. The ends of most of the long bones were well preserved, while the shafts, as a rule, had become so softened that they fractured and crumbled upon touching them. The bones of the forearm were found entire, but no trace existed of those of the wrist or feet. A number of finger bones, as well as several vertebrae and pieces of ribs, were found lying under the skull. The temporal bone of one skull containing the internal ear was found in such good condition as to show the openings through which all the vessels and nerves pass to this organ.

"Time only permitted the opening of two mounds, but it is the intention of the society to make another visit to them at an early day, when something more may be developed in this direction. The relies obtained by the society can be seen at Drs. Everett and Gillespie's office, among the other curiosities which the club has collected since its organization."

In the years that followed, the local mounds were disturbed and pilfered from time to time until laws forbidding this sort of unauthorized exploration were passed. It is quite generally agreed that materials contained in the local mounds were long ago removed. The mounds are now a well cared for part of Sinnissippi Park.

Front: Dr. Elaine Bluhm (Director), Margaret Hoffman, Carolyn Sands, Dan Casey. Back: Michael Hoffman, Gunnar Benson, Anderson, Anderson, John Washburne, Lloyd Casey, Jr., David Casey.

On July 24-25, 1961, some further history was revealed when a team of six archaeologists under the direction of Dr. Elaine Bluhm of the Illinois Archaeological Survey dug some test squares on the bayou bank east of the mound area in Sinnissippi Park. Dr. Bluhm and her crew came to Sterling at the invitation of the Sterling Rock Falls Historical Society and the Sterling Park Board. The following report by Gunnar Benson appeared in the Sterling Gazette of July 28, 1961:

"On Monday and Tuesday of this week, the north bank of the Sinnissippi Bayou was the scene of some very interesting activity on the part of a crew from the Illinois Archaeological Survey. This crew of six, under the direction of Dr. Elaine Bluhm of the Illinois Archaeological Survey and the University of Illinois, has been doing considerable digging in the Rock River Valley area between the Mississippi River and Sterling. Most of their work has had to do with investigating prehistoric Indian village sites.

"At the old Sinnissippi village site, which lies along the north bank of the bayou and is believed to have extended south to the bank of the river in the days before there were any back waters as now caused by the two dams, four test squares were run and produced considerable material of interest to the survey group.

"Story of Civilization"

"These test squares are five feet square and are taken down at six inch levels, each level being carefully screened for artifacts and other material which helps to reconstruct the story of civilization which roamed these parts hundreds and thousands of years ago. A carefully written report is kept of the findings at each level. Soil samples are also taken and these in turn reveal much to the archaeologist.

"Permission having been obtained from the Sterling Park Board to dig at the Sinnissippi site, the crew began the work on Monday morning. Two local young men, John Washburne and Lloyd Casey, Jr., who have done considerable work in this field, were also present and helped with the digging. Others who helped were Jim Pilgrim of Clinton, Iowa, past president of the Iowa Archaeological Society, David and Dan Casey, and Gunnar Benson, president of the local historical society.

"Great care is taken in removing the dirt from the test square, lest some valuable artifact be broken in its removal. Though spades are used in the digging, bones and other objects are carefully uncovered with small hand picks and other small tools. When something interesting shows up in the pit, it is not unusual to use a paint brush to sweep the dirt from the object so that a better idea of its nature may be had and to determine how best to remove it from the earth.

"Find Fired Rock"

"A number of interesting finds were made in the Sinnissippi diggings. A great deal of fired rock was found, the limestone being quite red from having been burned in the fires of these early Indians. Some good sized pieces of charcoal were also scattered throughout the soil.

"Many different kinds of bones were uncovered. These included a number of animal and fish bones. A good quantity of shells were found belonging to the turtle, muscle and snail group, some of the shells being in whole condition.

"Arrowheads representing different prehistoric cultures were found. One point in particular was representative of an early dweller in these parts. A very fine bone harpoon hook was uncovered by John Washburne, and Mike Hoffman at a level of two feet below the surface. They also found a pendant made of turtle shell, as well as a number of crude stone tools.

"The first day's diggings yielded a fine stone gorget (pendant). It had been highly polished and had two holes drilled in it so that it might be strung and hung around the neck. A partially broken bone awl was found on Tuesday, the long pointed end being intact. Several other awls of various kinds, and spear points and hooks of different varieties were uncovered.

"Scattered throughout the test pits were literally hundreds of pieces of pottery, some quite small and others of such size that decorative designs could readily be detected. Some of these pieces will be matched and glued together to produce larger pieces of the pottery which will tell a great deal about the culture of these early peoples.

"Dr. Bluhm. was much pleased with the results of the diggings in Sterling, and would have liked to have continued the work here if time had permitted. A complete record of the work will be made and she has promised to supply the Sterling Rock Falls Historical Society with a copy of the report when it is finished. Dr. Bluhm visited the local museum on Tuesday and complimented the Historical Society on the fine collection of Indian artifacts on display. She will do what she can to help the society to build an exhibit relating to the prehistoric culture of this area. She was also happy to find in the society's Rare Book Room some good newspaper records of the opening of the burial mounds in Sinnissippi and other parts of the county in 1877 and 1878.

"Members of the Sterling Rock Falls Historical Society have been much interested in learning more about the earliest inhabitants of this area, and were very happy when they learned that the Illinois Archaeological Survey would spend some time in Sterling this year. It is hoped that they will return and do more toward reconstructing the story of the past.

"Assisting Dr. Bluhm as regular members of her crew were Mike Hoffman of Harvard University, Peggy Hoffman of Boston University, Jerrel and Ferrel Anderson of Augustana College and Carolyn Sands of the University of Illinois."

Dr. Bluhm and her team agreed that the evidence uncovered in the 1961 Sinnissippi dig indicated at least two periods of civilization in this area. Material found at the top levels of their excavation dated back about two thousand years and no doubt belonged to the mound builders. Deeper digging brought up evidence of an earlier civilization, perhaps about four thousand years ago.

Arlyn Lawrence discusses Como diggings in Apil, 1963 on V.H. Lawrence site for Indian Ridge Subdivision.

In the spring of 1963, John Washburne of Sterling, discovered signs of an early Indian village at the bend in Rock River east of Como, where V. H. Lawrence and Sons were moving large quantities of top soil at the new Indian Ridge Subdivision. This set off some activity which was reported in the Sterling Gazette by Gunnar Benson of the Sterling Rock Falls Historical Society as follows:

"Indian Village Site Discovered Near Como"

"Archaeologists from the University of Illinois have been digging during the last few days on the V. H. Lawrence farm, east of Como, where a large Indian village site has been uncovered while moving earth for a new residential subdivision.

"The site was discovered by John Washburne of Sterling, a student at Southern Illinois University, while here during the Easter holidays. Washburne has worked with the Illinois Archaeological Survey group in the past, so immediately contacted Dr. Elaine Bluhm of the University of Illinois who is directing archaeological diggings in the Rock River Valley from Rock Island to Sterling. It was Dr. Bluhm's group which did work at Sinnissippi Park in Sterling two years ago.

"Dr. Bluhm had a crew of twelve here this past weekend, made up of personnel and students from the University of Illinois and members of the Council of Illinois Archaeologists from the Chicago area. Professional archaeologists included Charles Bareis, a former resident of Nachusa and Dixon, and Harald P. Jensen of Urbana. Bareis is associated with the large Cahokia mound project near St. Louis. Jensen is salvage archaeologist for the Illinois Archaeological Survey.

"The top soil having been removed in the area, many positive markings of early Indian habitation were to be seen. These pot holes and pits were carefully excavated and were found to contain considerable refuse which revealed much information of these prehistoric dwellers along the Rock River.

"It is the opinion of the archaeologists that this site was inhabited by a late Mississippian group about 600 years ago. This is one of the first sites from this period discovered in this area. These prehistoric men lived by hunting and fishing, their refuse pits being filled with bones of deer and other animals as well as remains of fish, clams and turtles.

"One pit contained a sizeable piece of pottery which showed an interesting design at the throat of the jar. The usual fired rock and charcoal was also found in great abundance. All of this material was carefully packaged and will be studied in the laboratory.

"Two larger excavations each revealed a skeleton. One was buried in the conventional knees bent position used by many Indians. A very interesting find in connection with this specimen was an arrow head lying in the position of the heart. Both skeletons were carefully removed to be used in further study.

"The group finished its work on Monday and the area once again has taken on the appearance of a plowed field. Dr. Bluhm expressed her appreciation to V. H. Lawrence and Sons for their fine cooperation and assistance in making it possible to study the site before continuing the work on the subdivision.

"A final report will be furnished to the owner of the land and the Sterling Rock Falls Historical Society which is gradually piecing together the story of the local area as it was many centuries ago."

Sterling Daily Gazette, April 30, 1963

On May 15, 1964, about a year after the Como dig, another important discovery was made on the old Freeby estate northwest of Sterling (now owned by Herbert Stier). Again, it was the earthmoving firm of V. H. Lawrence and Sons which uncovered the evidence of a prehistoric culture in the Sterling area.

The following newspaper reports tell the story of the find, although local residents had long suspected that Indians had once been located here because of artifacts occasionally found on the site:

"Uncover Indian Skeletons During Road Construction"

"Heavy equipment operators employed by V. H. Lawrence and Sons Construction Company, Rock Falls, while acquiring fill dirt for the new McCue Road project northwest of Sterling, Friday unearthed an old Indian burial ground at the crest of a small, natural hill located adjacent to the new roadbed.

"A clause in the contract of landowner Herbert Stier indicates that if any relics were uncovered by the local construction company, work in that area would stop immediately.

"The skeletons, from 12 to 15 of them at the present time, were located from 1 1/2 to 2 feet below the surface of the ground.

"James Anderson, a member of the Illinois Archaeological Society using University of Illinois equipment, arrived in Sterling last weekend to begin work in the burial grounds in the attempted removal and preservation of the human bones.

"He said that the skeletons are extremely old as indicated by the powderiness of the bones. He declined to estimate the name of the tribe or the approximate year the Indians were buried.

"The site was apparently an old burial ground, not a village site, as very few relics in addition to the bones were discovered.

"The natural hill, about 10 to 15 feet high, measures about 50 by 70 feet. Since the skeletons were found only just under the surface of the ground, Anderson said he does not believe he will find any more by digging deeper.

"The remains of an animal were also discovered; however Anderson as yet has not been able to identify it."

Sterling Daily Gazette, May 21, 1964

"Find Ancient Indian City at Sterling"

"Workmen of V. H. Lawrence and Sons Excavating Company uncovered an Indian village on the Freeby estate Saturday while removing dirt for the McCue Road improvement project.

"Since Monday, Jim Anderson of the Illinois Archaeological Survey has been working in the area. He has uncovered 12 burial sites. He says indications are that it was a village site. The burial sites were in a 50 by 70 foot area.

"The culture apparently is older than one uncovered in the Como area about a year ago, Anderson said. He added that the new village probably predates Christ.

"The site is about two miles west of Sterling."

Rockford Morning Star, May 21, 1964

"Sterling Diggers End Work -- Ancient Find Kept Secret"

"Discovery of an Indian burial ground west of Sterling was a well kept secret, giving workmen and scientists time to study archaic remains before curiosity seekers overran the area.

"Workmen of the V. H. Lawrence and Sons Excavating Co., uncovered some bones last Friday on the Freeby estate, north of LeFevre and McCue Roads west of Sterling.

"News of the discovery began to leak out Tuesday but it wasn't generally known until Wednesday. By this time the remains of 12 burial sites had been dug up and studied by Jim Anderson of the Illinois Archaeological Survey.

"V. H. Lawrence notified state officials as soon as the evidence indicated there were possible valuable findings in the area. Work in the immediate area was stopped until the arrival of Anderson Monday. A final check of the area was made Thursday morning when a grader was run over the area, to see if any additional evidence could be turned up.

"Preliminary studies of the findings indicate there was an Indian village which pre dates Christ on top of the hill. The fact there was no pottery or other artifacts found in the area indicate the possibility of an archaic culture.

"This is an older culture than the one found on the V. H. Lawrence farm, east of Como along the Rock River about a year ago. The new discovery is about two miles away in the Elkhorn Creek area. The Como Indian village was believed to have been inhabited by a late Mississippian group about 600 years ago. Pottery was found in this area.

"Most of the bones and village site evidence was discovered about two feet below the surface. Anderson believes that the bones discovered were from those of a later culture using what used to be a village site as a burial ground. He points out it will be many months before all of the evidence can be studied and pieced together to make a definite conclusion on what has been discovered here."

Rockford Morning Star, May 22, 1964

As usually happens, once the news of a new archaeological find leaked out, an army of curious citizens swarmed over the old Freeby site, digging away in the hopes of uncovering some relic. One of the funniest sights observed by this writer was a young lad with a World War II bayonet digging and stabbing away in all seriousness, hoping to come away with a reward for his crude labors.

Returning to our original question about the significance of the mounds in Sinnissippi Park, all evidence points to the presence of a prehistoric people in this area about two thousand years ago. Their village was located below the bluff in the bayou area and they buried their dead and conducted their ceremonial sacrifices on top of the bluff.

Evidence at hand also indicates that other groups predated this mound builder group, and still others followed. We know., of course., that Indians were here in large numbers when the white man arrived in Illinois and stayed until the Black Hawk War drove them west.

Many of the artifacts uncovered by W. C. Holbrook are on display in the museum of the Sterling Rock Falls Historical Society, located in the Sterling Coliseum.